The PC gaming market is the largest segment in the world, with over 1.5 billion gamers worldwide. The industry has grown exponentially since its inception and continues to grow at an exponential rate. This growth can be attributed to many factors, including the advent of online multiplayer games, GPU technology advancements, and more affordable hardware.
The best budget gaming pc build 2021 is a guide that will help you build the best cheap gaming PC in 2021.
When I say “cheap,” I mean that the gaming PC should be inexpensive to the overwhelming majority of PC gamers and capable of running a wide range of popular titles, including eSports games. As a result, it shouldn’t just be ‘Cheap,’ since it’s impossible to play all of the games on it smoothly.
Because this word may mean various things to different people, I’ve expressed mine to let you know what I’ll be talking about in this article.
Observing the sales of various PC components across the globe as well as the interaction of people on our articles over the last several years, I’ve discovered that most PC gamers fall within the $450-$650 price bracket. As a result, the construction recommendations I’ll provide will be limited to this range.
So, keep in mind that “cheap” may range from $200 to $300 for many people, but I’d be wasting your and my time if I recommended an APU like the Athlon 3000G or Ryzen 3200G. These are incapable of providing a satisfying gaming experience.
Another thing to keep in mind is that although things are difficult this year due to the GPU scarcity, things will never be the same again. Things change all the time, and you’ll soon have your construction completed at a reasonable cost.
The components I’ll suggest here are the best and most up-to-date in each area, whether it’s the CPU, graphics card, case, or storage drive. Not only that, but following the build recommendation, you will be provided instructions on how to construct the whole PC.
Now, without further ado, let’s delve into the list to discover what you can buy for $450-$650 in 2021 to create the finest gaming PC imaginable.
PC Build: $450-$550 Processor
Intel Core i3 10100F processor
- 4/8 cores/threads
- 3.6/4.3GHz clock speed
- 6MB L3 Cache
- TDP- 65W
Intel Core i3 CPUs are on par with other Ryzen processors in terms of performance. However, since the present pricing of budget Ryzen CPUs and APUs are too high, the Core i3 10100F is the best option. It’s a strong CPU with four cores and twelve threads that can handle any game at 1080p quality.
Furthermore, it works flawlessly with any cheap or mid-range graphics card without causing any bottlenecking. It has a base frequency of 3.6GHz that can be increased to 4.3GHz, significantly improving gaming performance.
This is the greatest option for any inexpensive gaming build on a $400 to $500 budget, and it doesn’t need any special cooling since it’s a locked chip. As a result, you will be able to save a bit more money.
PC Build: $550-$650 Processor
Intel Core i5 10400F processor
- 6/12 cores/threads
- 2.9/4.3GHz clock speed
- 12MB L3 Cache
- TDP- 65W
Many people will suggest the Ryzen 5 3600 for a setup costing up to $700, but I respectfully disagree. Although I believe the Ryzen 5 3600 is one of the finest gaming CPUs available, the i5 10400F just provides greater value for a cheaper price.
With the i5 10400F, you’ll get comparable gaming performance and the same number of cores/threads for $40-$50 less. So there’s no way you’re losing any value. Furthermore, the cost of an aftermarket CPU cooler is reduced since the i5 10400F is a locked chip that requires just the original heatsink for cooling.
Although the Ryzen 3600 comes with a standard cooling, it will need at least an air cooler for overclocking, which will cost $30 or more depending on how far you want to go. You won’t need an overclockable chipset with the i5 10400F, so you’ll save even more money on the motherboard.
The best part? Because the i3 10100F and i5 10400F use the same socket, they will work with most LGA 1200 motherboards. Users of the i3 10100F or i5 10400F may upgrade to the i7 10700K or i9 10900K in this manner.
- 4+1 power phases in VRM
- 64GB RAM at a speed of 2933MHz is supported.
- 1x PCI-E x16, 1x PCI-E x1 expansion slots
- 1x M.2, 4x SATA storage
- Internet access over a 1G LAN
You’ll need an H410 or H510 motherboard for any of the CPUs listed. Currently, an H510 chipset board is tough to come by, and the characteristics of both chipsets are almost identical. The MSI H410M-PRO has two RAM slots that can handle up to 64GB of RAM at 2933MHz, as well as one PCI-E x16 slot for graphics and one PCI-E slot for expansion devices such as a WiFi card.
There are 4 SATA connections and 1 M.2 connector for storage, as well as 6 USB ports for peripheral access at the I/O. Its greatest feature, in my opinion, is the Debug LEDs, which assist in locating the problem when the system fails to start.
It’s inexpensive and will work with all of the components mentioned in these construction recommendations.
RAM stands for Random Access Memory.
Patriot Viper Steel DDR4 8GB 3000MHz Patriot Viper Steel DDR4 8GB 3000MHz
PVS48G300C6 is the model number.
- 8GB x 1 stick capacity
- 3000MHz clock speed
- 16-18-18-38 CL Timings
- Using LED lights is not recommended.
The minimum RAM I suggest for every build, whether it’s a $300 build or a $500 build, is 8GB. Nowadays, I don’t suggest reducing the budget for RAM to invest in other components since RAM bottlenecks severely if it is inadequate.
8GB RAM should enough, but not excessively so, since games may quickly use more than 6GB of RAM at 1080p resolution. This Patriot RAM stick is rated at 3000MHz and is fully compatible with the motherboard I mentioned. So don’t be concerned about the board’s memory frequency capability of 2933MHz.
It’s quick and inexpensive, plus you’ll have one more space to fill if you need more. If you’re updating your RAM, make sure you get the identical module.
Common storage drive
MP33 512GB TEAMGROUP
- 500 GB of storage
- 1700/1400 MB/s read/write speed
- 5 year warranty
Thank you to TeamGroup for releasing a high-performance, low-cost NVME SSD that is comparable to most SATA SSDs. You shouldn’t use hard drives these days unless you require a lot of storage, but you’ll need an SSD to store your OS and data so they can run fast right away.
NVME SSDs are even quicker, and although the MP33 is slower than many NVME SSDs, it is three times faster than SATA SSDs at the same price. Faster NVME SSDs will cost twice as much as this one, increasing the total cost of the project.
With 500GB of storage, you can easily put a few of large games on your hard drive, and you can always add another when you need more.
Geforce GT 1030 graphics card (Option 1, $450 build)
GeForce GT 1030 from Gigabyte
- Pascal is the architecture.
- 2GB GDDR5 VRAM
- The Boost Clock runs at 1506 MHz.
- 30 watts TDP
The GT 1030 is a low-profile graphics card designed for 1080p gaming at low to medium settings. It is incompatible with AAA games and should only be used for casual and eSports games like as Fortnite, CSGO, Valorant, and older titles.
It has 384 Cuda Cores and 2GB of GDDR5 RAM. It can draw power from the PCI-E slot and does not need an additional power connection, since it has a TDP of just 30 watts.
GTX 1650 graphics card (Option 2, $550 Build)
NVIDIA GeForce GTX 1650 OC ASUS Phoenix
- Turing, the architect
- 4GB GDDR6 VRAM
- Clock frequency: 1665 MHz with Boost Clock
- 75 watts TDP
The GTX 1650 is a good budget graphics card that can provide a good 1080p gaming experience. It can’t play at maximum settings, but it can play nearly any game at high settings, giving you 50-60 frames per second. The GTX 1650 is a member of the Turing family, with 896 Cuda Cores.
This version, unlike the original, has GDDR6 memory that operates at 12Gbps instead of 8Gbps, resulting in improved performance. The entire VRAM capacity is 4GB, which is adequate for most games, and with a TDP of just 75 watts, it, like the GT 1030, does not need any additional power.
GTX 1660 Super (Option 3, $650 Build) graphics card
Super GeForce GTX 1660 ZOTAC Gaming
- Turing, the architect
- 6GB GDDR6 VRAM
- 1785 MHz is the frequency of the clock. Clock Booster
- 125 watts TDP
The GTX 1660 S is the larger brother of the GTX 1650, having more Cuda Cores and VRAM. It has 1408 Cuda Cores and 6GB GDDR6 VRAM in total. Unlike the 1650, it can max out most games at 1080p resolution and maintain 60 frames per second in most games.
When combined with the i5 10400F, you’ll have one of the finest 1080p CPU-GPU combinations available.
Common Power Supply
EVGA 500 BR EVGA 500 BR EVGA 500 BR
- 650 Watts of power
- 80 Plus Gold energy efficiency rating
- Semi-modular is a kind of semi-modular.
- 5 year warranty
You’ll be able to power all of the components with a 450 Watt power supply, whether you purchase parts for the $450 build or the $650 build. I recommend opting with a slightly higher-wattage power supply to allow for future upgrades. As a result, 650 watts will suffice.
The EVGA 650 GQ has dependable components and an 80 Plus Gold certification, which means it can run at up to 90% efficiency on normal loads. Except for the EPS and ATX connections, it’s semi-modular and just requires you to plug in the wires you’ll need.
Because it’s a semi-modular device, cable clutter may be easily avoided by just utilizing the cords that are really needed.
Case in point:
MATREXX 50 DEEPCOOL
- Mid-tower is a kind of building.
- tempered glass panel on the side
- 6 fan slots, 1 120mm fan pre-installed
- PSU shroud that wraps around the whole unit
It’s not uncommon to see individuals using flashy cases with RGB lights strewn around. What matters most is how simple it will be to put your components together. A decent case should be flexible and have enough of cable clearance at the rear.
Multiple routing holes on the motherboard mounting plate and even in the PSU shroud are provided by DeepCool Matrexx 50, allowing you to conveniently conceal your wires. It has a transparent front panel with side vents for ventilation and a see-through tempered glass panel on the side.
It’s one of my top three choices for $50 out of dozens of mid-tower cases, and it’s definitely wowed users more than any other $50 case.
Purchasing Options: $450, $550, and $650
How to put the pieces together and get it to function in under an hour
So, now that you’ve chosen all of the components, it’s time to put them together to make it function. Even whether you have never constructed a computer or have created systems previously, you can accomplish this in under an hour if you follow my step-by-step brief tutorial. If you want a more detailed instruction, you may download our Guide for free.
A #2 screwdriver is all you’ll need to put the pieces together. It is recommended to wear an anti-static wristband, but if you do not have one, it is not an issue.
Let’s get started on the construction!
Install the processor and CPU cooler first.
It’s a bit different to install an Intel or AMD CPU. The technique for aligning the CPU, however, remains the same. On both the motherboard and the CPU, look for a Small Arrow sign.
Pull the arm up to release the lock on the socket. Now, position the processor to achieve the proper alignment, and gently drop it. Remember not to apply any pressure to the pins as this may cause them to crack or bend.
Then close the arm, which will require some effort. Don’t be bashful about it.
There are two methods for installing the cooler. The stock coolers are installed in various ways by Intel and AMD. However, if your cooler’s base doesn’t have pre-applied thermal paste, add a pea-sized amount before installation.
On the Intel motherboard, line the cooler with the four screw holes, then push the plastic latches on opposite sides with a little touch to create a click sound. After that, you should move the cooler to see whether it’s working. If the cooler does not move, it has been correctly fitted.
Also, inspect the back of your motherboard to see whether the plastic latches on the opposite side are equally coming out.
There are two well-known ways on the AMD motherboard: The first is simple: you just need to remove the plastic covers above and below the CPU socket in order to align the screws on your stock AMD cooler. Simply place it carefully and secure the cooler with a screwdriver.
The second technique applies to CPU coolers that need you to connect them to the plastic clips visible above the CPU socket using the two clips on both sides. You may need to use a lot of effort to do this, but make sure you apply equal pressure on all sides.
After you’ve finished installing the cooler, connect the 4 pin power connection on the CPU cooler cable to the CPU FAN header on your motherboard. Don’t be concerned! It will only go in one way.
Set up the Memory
Perhaps it’s the simplest option. Align the sticks with the slot by grabbing them. In between the slots, there will be a tiny plastic barrier that will not be in the precise center, indicating how to position the memory stick. Apply pressure on the stick until you hear a click from both ends of the DIMM slot, indicating that it is properly inserted.
In order to get the most out of the stick, you should put it with one DIMM slot between them.
Place the motherboard in place.
To reach the inside of the case and install the motherboard, you must first open the side panel of the cabinet. Now, before you install the motherboard, you must line the I/O shield with the motherboard’s I/O ports at the back of the chassis. One of the most frequent things people overlook is this.
After that, line the motherboard with the case’s standoff screws. If your case doesn’t come with standoffs, you’ll need to install them before installing your motherboard. These standoffs will be included in your chassis for free. Also included with your case will be screws for mounting all of the components that you will place inside. So don’t be concerned about it.
Setup the Hard Disk
PC cabinets offer several techniques for installing hard drives, but they are all simple figurable and need just the use of screws to attach your hard drive.
Locate the slot inside your case and secure it with the 4 or at least 2 large screws that will also be used to secure the power supply and ensure that the hard drive does not move. Some cases feature a tool-free mechanism that allows you to simply remove the drive bay and insert your hard drive. It does not need the use of a screwdriver.
Set up the Power Source
Because of the mess it creates, I always recommend installing a power supply after the components I listed above. It’s just as simple to install a power supply as it is to install a hard disk.
Slide the power supply inside and line it with the screw holes on the back of your case. You may either face the Power supply with the fan facing down to get cool air, or you can face it in the other way to keep dust out. It’s best if the fan is facing down.
The power supply installation space is located at the top of certain cases, while it is located at the bottom of most modern models. However, the installation procedure will remain the same.
Now it’s time to connect the wires!
If you’ve never done this before, wiring may be a little difficult. However, if you follow my instructions, you will not need to attempt again to learn it. First and foremost, I do not suggest adding a graphics card before wiring since it complicates the process. As a result, finishing the wiring before installing the GPU is strongly advised.
Also, before connecting every cable, it’s a good idea to route each one via routeing holes so that the majority of them end up concealed under the motherboard tray. Learn how to do that by reading my Cable Management Guide.
Connect the 24 pin ATX cable first.
The largest connection you’ll discover is the 24 pin power connector, which has the thickest cable and is readily identifiable. You must connect it to your motherboard’s 24 pin power port, which is almost always located on the right middle side of the PCB. It will only go in one way. Make sure it’s correctly connected by applying some pressure.
#2. Plug in the computer’s power supply.
The CPU power cord will have 4+4 pin power connectors, and your motherboard will have either a 4 pin or an 8 pin power port, which is usually located on the top left side of the PCB. It will be in close proximity to your CPU socket. It will also only travel in one way, much as the 24 pin ATX power connection.
You must connect this connection based on how many pinholes your CPU port on your motherboard has. If your board has an 8 pin power port, you’ll need to connect just a 4 pin connection or combine two 4 pin connectors to create an 8 pin power connector. It’s easy peasy!
#3. Plug the SATA wires in.
To connect to the hard disk, you’ll need to use two cables. One is the 15-pin SATA power connection, which will power your hard drive, and the other is the SATA cable, which will link your hard drive to the motherboard. The power cable will be connected to your power source, and the SATA cable for the interface will be connected to the motherboard separately.
#4. Connect the front panel and USB 3.0 wires.
Because there are so many tiny connections on the wires that come from the front panel of your chassis, this is the most difficult part. Audio, USB 2.0, USB 3.0, Reset, Power, HDD LED, and Power LED connections are included. The Audio, USB 2.0, and USB 3.0 connections are the easiest to attach since they are large and only go one direction. You can easily locate the labeling on your motherboard, and if you don’t, remember to download my guide for assistance.
Remember the following diagram for the other tiny connections and connect these wires exactly as shown.
Install the video card.
It’s time to put your favorite component in place. Simply remove the PCI expansion cover located at the back of your case to install it. Because most cards have two slots, you usually have to delete two of them. Make sure you remove the ones that are aligned with your motherboard’s PCI-Ex 16 slot.
Open the plastic latch at the right end of the slot and insert the card with enough force that the latch shuts on its own. The power line from the power source should then be connected. If your card has a six-pin power port, connect it with a six-pin power connector; if it has more, connect it with more. It’s simple to understand.
Make use of zip ties.
Finally, once all of the wiring has been completed, use zip ties to clean up your system. It also saves a lot of space by preventing stray cables from entering any fan.
Steps to Follow
The operating system must then be installed. I suggest using Windows 10, which is compatible with the majority of programs and will run your games without a hitch.
Then, in order for your system to function properly, you’ll need to download the GPU driver for your graphics card as well as other necessary drivers from official sources.
Just because you know what components you’ll be utilizing in this project doesn’t imply you’ve finished it. You won’t be able to get the most out of your PC if you don’t have the right peripherals. I’ve compiled a list of useful peripherals that should be included in your budget and will aid you in defeating your opponents in the game.
Because I’ve personally tested a lot of peripherals, I have a strong understanding of what you should purchase and what you shouldn’t.
S101 Redragon Gaming Mouse Gaming Keyboard Combo
Simply shut your eyes and you’ll have this keyboard/mouse combination. Don’t scurry about looking for what’s excellent and what’s not. Simply go with the flow. It will cost you just $30 and will provide you the greatest value for your money. Especially the Reddragon M601 mouse, which is a budget gamer’s delight.
Despite my experience with high-end gaming mice such as the G502, Razer Deathadder, and Corsair M65 Pro, I consider this mouse to be a premium accessory for the price of a pizza. Because of the amount of functions it offers, it cannot be compared to any other low-cost gaming mouse.
The keyboard is also a good buy since it has RGB lights built in. These two are unrivaled in terms of quality and design, and you should stop worrying about it. Simply get it!
Amazon: SteelSeries QcK Gaming Mouse Pad
SteelSeries QcK is a popular mouse pad that costs less than ten dollars and is large enough to accommodate your mouse movements. This pad is 12.6 x 10.6 x 1.6 inches and has a SteelSeries logo on the left bottom corner.
You will be able to operate your mouse with ease on it, and it will not get filthy in a short period of time, unlike the lighter-colored pads that must be cleaned often to maintain their appearance. This mouse pad features a very smooth surface and a firm rubber base that won’t slide around as you move your hands.
G230 Stereo Gaming Headset by Logitech
When it comes to headsets, I don’t advocate going cheap as I do with other components. Cheap headsets expire within a few months, requiring you to spend a significant amount of money on new ones on a regular basis.
Why not go with something that will last a long time and won’t break the bank? The Logitech G230 is designed specifically for this. It is inexpensive and dependable. Because of its excellent Stereo 2.0 surround audio quality and noise cancellation, it has received hundreds of favorable ratings.
It’s very attractive, and the microphone works perfectly. You can move it from horizontal to vertical or vice versa. This headset comes with a three-year guarantee from Logitech.
2.1 Speaker Sound System by Cyber Acoustics
Headsets are seldom the ideal option for gaming since wearing them for many hours may cause ear discomfort, and having audio and fresh air to your head is occasionally needed.
The Cyber Acoustics 2.1 speaker sound system is inexpensive and has two speakers and a subwoofer to fill your space with gaming sounds. Although 2.1 does not provide a complete surround experience, 5.1 or 7.1 surround speakers are not necessary for a low-cost setup.
These speakers will set you back just $40, which is much less than comparable enthusiast-level speakers while yet providing excellent sound quality. Because of the value our method offers, over 10,000 individuals have given favorable comments. Along with the speakers and subwoofer, you’ll also receive a hub for attaching gaming headphones so you don’t have to utilize the audio ports on your CPU.
KG251Q bmiix Acer
There are a number of cheap gaming monitors around $100, but I recommend spending a bit more since having a smooth experience is essential when your system can provide more than 100 frames per second in titles like CSGO, Overwatch, or Rocket League. As one of the constructions I mentioned above may do this, make sure you take use of it to the fullest.
I selected the Acer KG251Q bmiix monitor for this reason, which you should buy if you want to take your gaming to the next level. This will set you back about $150, but it will come with AMD FreeSync, which will allow you to play without tears, which is what bothers me the most.
The monitor has a 1 millisecond reaction time and a 1080p resolution that your setup will be able to manage. The display features a 60Hz refresh rate that may be increased to 75Hz by overclocking it. So, this is a step above than most budget monitors, which cost about $150. If you don’t want to spend more than $100, I recommend the HP Pavilion 22cwa, which has less features but will meet your basic requirements.
Last but not least,
I’ve covered the most essential points in this article, but if you get lost anywhere in the middle, there’s a section called “comment section” down below. So, don’t be shy about asking questions and make sure you read this instruction carefully. It will be very advantageous.
The best budget gaming pc uk is a PC that can be built for around £500. It will play most games on high settings with the latest graphics card.
Frequently Asked Questions
Is it worth building a gaming PC in 2021?
Yes, it is worth building a gaming PC in 2021.
How much would it cost to build a gaming PC 2021?
What is the best budget PC 2021?
This is a difficult question to answer, as it depends on what you are looking for. If you are looking for the best gaming PC, I would recommend the AMD Ryzen 7 2700X or Intel Core i7-9700K.